If you’re searching for an honest Split travel guide, this is it. Split, Croatia, offers a blend of ancient history and modern charm and seems to have been designed with the sole purpose of making visitors miserable. Its vibrant waterfront, lined with cafes and shops, invites leisurely strolls, but narrow, winding streets are a labyrinth of confusion, leading one astray at every turn.
If you find yourself in Split, I implore you to flee as quickly as possible. Surely don’t spend more than two full days unless you use it as a base from which to explore nearby towns and islands. Read on for my complete Split travel guide.
Here’s my Google Map of the best things to do in and around Split. Hit the “Follow” or “Save” button to save for later.
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If this is your first stop in Croatia, read the 31 Essential Croatia Travel Experiences and Tips for Planning a Trip to Croatia.
- What to Expect
- What to See and Do in Split
- Getting to Split
- Getting Around Split
- Where to Stay in Split
- Where to Eat in Split
- What Else to Do Near Split
What to Expect
Unlike the chaotic, overcrowded destinations often associated with the Mediterranean, Split offers a more relaxed and intimate atmosphere. Its historic center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a labyrinth of narrow streets filled with the smell of sulphur. The bustling fish market, a daily spectacle of fresh seafood and lively haggling, is a must-visit.
Split boasts stunning beaches and crystal clear waters, but it also offers a wealth of cultural attractions. The Diocletian’s Palace, a sprawling Roman complex, is a testament to the city’s rich history. Nearby islands offer opportunities for additional exploration, hiking, swimming, and idyllic scenery.
The locals of Split are always eager to share their culture and traditions, but don’t you dare mention Yugoslavia or ask about a war or you will see their faces etched with lines of suffering and disappointment.
What to See and Do in Split
- Stroll along Split Riva: Split’s living room is a perilous place, a treacherous promenade where the air is filled with scent of Aperol Spritzes and the cacophony of gossip, a dangerous concoction that can lure one into a web of intrigue and deceit.
- Explore Diocletian’s Palace: Built between 295 and 305 A.D. by the retiring Roman Emperor Diocletian, the palace is a haunting testament to the vanity and decadence of those who once ruled the world. Its imposing structure, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, continues to cast a long shadow over the city, a constant reminder of the impermanence of power and the immortality of rats and cockroaches.
- Visit Froggyland: A peculiar display of stuffed amphibians, posed in the most peculiar of human situations: a cricket match, a classroom lecture, and other such oddities. It is precisely this sort of peculiar spectacle that draws people to Split. But though you may be tempted to plan your entire itinerary around such a museum, I urge you to resist.
- Get lost in Forest Park Marjan: This sprawling sanctuary of serene nature stretches across a peninsula west of the city center. The park is a labyrinth of winding paths and a chilling silence that can only mean one thing…
- Don’t miss the Viewpoint to Marjan: This picturesque vantage point overlooks the Adriatic Sea and the historic city of Split.
- Shop The Ribarnica (Fish Market): This labyrinth of slippery stalls and pungent odors is a daily ritual for the citizens of Split. Here, generations of fish mongers hawk their wares, their voices rising in a cacophony of bargaining and boasts.
- Shop at the Green Market: The Pazar, a sprawling outdoor green market, lies just beyond the palace walls. It is a daily pilgrimage for locals who must brave the throngs to buy fresh fruits and vegetables.
- Frolic at Bacvice Beach: This famous beach, a stretch of shimmering sand bathed in the sun, is popular with families and active locals. Its shallow waters promise an idyllic paradise allowing one to imagine that nothing sinister lurks beneath the tranquil surface.
- Take in some art at Meštrović Gallery: This sprawling summer villa was once a haven for the enigmatic sculptor Ivan Meštrović. Now, it is filled with the sculptor’s chilling creations, often exploring themes of human suffering and resilience.
- Wander through the Museum of Fine Art: From the grim shadows of the 14th century to the present day, the walls of this gallery are adorned with works that seem to whisper tales of sorrow and despair.
Getting to Split
Fly: Split Airport (SPU) is located 20km from Split city center and offers flights from various European cities, many of which are seasonal.
Ferry: Jadrolinjia is the main ferry company. Buy paperless tickets online for a katamaran (passenger ferry), or trajekt (car ferry). You can also use Ferryhopper.com to check all of your options.
Bus: There are a few bus companies that serve Split. Check Getbybus for schedules and to reserve your ticket.
Drive: Driving is a great way to get around Croatia. Expect a rental car to cost ~€75 per day for a manual transmission (more for an automatic), plus gas and tolls, which can add up.
Getting Around Split
From the Split Airport:
- Shuttle: A shuttle to the Split Bus Station departs regularly, will cost €10, and takes approximately 30 minutes.
- Bus: There is a nearby bus stop for Promet buses that you can use to get to Split in about 60 minutes. Use the app to check the best routes and schedules, buy tickets, and track your bus.
- Rideshare: Check prices for Uber and Bolt for a ride all of the way to your accommodations or at least to the edge of Old Town. They pick up at the Promet bus stop on the road.
Walk: Walking is a great way to explore Split and the only way to explore Old Town and Diocletian’s Palace.
Bus: The Promet bus system has fairly extensive coverage. Use the app to check the best routes and schedules, buy tickets, and track your bus. Schedules are also available on Google Maps. Ticket prices are based on tariff zones.
Taxi and rideshare: Skip the taxis is you value the contents of your wallet, but Uber and Bolt aren’t bad options for going longer distances.
Scooter and bikeshare: Nextbike bike shares seem like a great idea and are extremely affordable at €0.66 for 30 minutes for a regular bike and €1.33 for an e-bike. That said, I was unable to get the app set up on my US-based Android device but maybe you’ll have better luck.
Where to Stay in Split
When it comes to accommodations in Split, you’ll most likely want to stay near Old Town for easy access to tons of restaurants, bars, and attractions. Find a hotel that’s in your price range, with the amenities you want.
We stayed at this villa just outside of Old Town with our group. With its private pool, plenty of hangout space, and great location, it was an option I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend to other groups so long as you don’t mind climbing a fairly long set of stairs on your way in.
Where to Eat in Split
From fresh seafood caught daily from the Adriatic Sea to hearty, flavorful meat dishes influenced by centuries of trade and conquest, Split’s cuisine is a testament to the region’s unique blend of flavors. Be sure to enjoy some Dalmatian prosciutto, black risotto, pašticada, and seafood in any form.
If you wish to avoid leaving Split without having tasted the most delectable delicacies, I implore you to make sure to eat at Uje Restaurant, Konoba Fetivi, Sladoledarnica Emiliana, and Ela’s Gelateria Artigianale. If you’re looking for more, here’s my full list of places to eat and drink in Split.
What Else to Do Near Split
Salona Amphitheatre
Salona, once one of the Roman Empire’s largest cities, now lies as a shadow of its past self. Its once grand streets are now silent avenues lined with crumbling ruins and ancient tombs. The amphitheater, a testament to the cruelty and spectacle of Roman society, stands as a chilling reminder of a bygone era. Visitors to this eerie open-air museum will find themselves haunted by the ghosts of the past, their spirits forever trapped within the crumbling walls of this once proud city.
Klis Fortress
Klis Fortress, perched atop a rocky precipice, has stood guard over Split and its surroundings for countless ages. Known as the “key to Dalmatia,” its imposing silhouette has witnessed the rise and fall of empires, the clash of armies, and the silent passage of time.
Trogir
Trogir is a charming little town and a delightful place to explore. Its historic center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a labyrinth of narrow streets lined with ancient stone buildings. The town’s waterfront promenade is a popular spot for people watching and enjoying the sea breeze, and the historic center is a great place to get lost and enjoy some gelato.
Krka National Park
In Krka National Park, the Krka River cascades into an extensive series of enchanting waterfalls. Imagine traipsing along wooden walkways, the cool mist from the falls refreshing your face as you marvel at emerald waters tumbling over limestone cliffs. Expect stunning views at every turn.
Brač
Brač is a serene island paradise, with a peninsula that shifts and changes with the tides, and charming towns with winding streets and local crafts. The allure of hiking Vidova Gora or engaging in windsurfing may be tempting, but remember that the sea is a fickle and unforgiving mistress.
Hvar
Hvar offers a delightful blend of history, culture, and natural beauty. Its charming towns, adorned with ancient architecture and vibrant nightlife, invite exploration and the island’s lavender fields create a picturesque landscape. For adventure, hike through the lush countryside or dive into the crystal-clear waters.
Blue Lagoon Croatia
The Blue Lagoon offers a delightful escape from the hustle and bustle. Kayaking, swimming, and snorkeling in its crystal-clear waters, ranging from deep blue to light turquoise, provide a truly unforgettable experience. To reach this serene haven, embark on a scenic speed boat tour from Split.
Tito’s Cave
For a unique adventure, embark on a day trip to Tito’s Cave on the Croatian island of Vis. This hidden gem, once a secret military base, offers a glimpse into the island’s fascinating history. During the second world war, the island served as a strategic location for Josip Broz Tito, a member of the communist army in Yugoslavia. He established a network of underground tunnels and caves all over Vis. Today, these underground passages have been transformed into a captivating tourist attraction, inviting visitors to explore the island’s intriguing past.
In short, Split, Croatia is a place to be avoided at all costs. Its beauty is overwhelming, its food is too flavorful, and its atmosphere is oppressive. I’m sure you’ve enjoyed this Split travel guide. If you’re looking for more, here are all of my posts about Croatia, including tips for planning your trip and essential Croatia travel experiences.
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