Palermo has been inhabited since the 8th century BC and has been ruled by a variety of different cultures over the centuries, including the Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Normans, and Spanish. This rich history is reflected in the city’s architecture, which is a mix of different styles. The heart of Palermo is the historic center, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This area is home to many of the city’s most important landmarks, including the Palermo Cathedral, the Norman Palace, and the Quattro Canti, making this a great area to explore on foot, through a walking tour.
Read on for a free self-guided walking tour of central Palermo that you can do on your own time, using my outline. I’m including a Google Maps link for each of the stops to help you follow along and also so that if you want to enter any of the sites, you’ll be able to see when they’re open. As a general rule, you likely won’t be able to see much if you do this tour on a Sunday so aim for any other day. Here’s the full map so you can see what you’re getting into before you start.
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Where to Start
Once you’ve made it to Palermo, dropped off your luggage, and maybe had a good sleep and/or something to eat, make your way to Catacombe dei Cappuccini to officially start your tour.
1. Catacombe dei Cappuccini
The Capuchin Catacombs are a series of underground chambers that contain the mummified remains of over 8,000 people. The catacombs were created in the 16th century by the Capuchin friars. It is open in the morning and afternoon daily with an extended early afternoon closure. Regular admission is €5. I didn’t make it here on my last visit but you better believe I’ll go next time.
2. Royal Palace and Palatine Chapel
The 11th-12th century palace is a mix of various styles, including European, Sicilian, Byzantine, and Arabic, and features breathtaking Byzantine mosaics and an Islamic-style wooden stalactite ceiling. The chapel is also a must! A €19 regular admission ticket gets you access to the Palatine Chapel, royal apartments, royal gardens, and a rotating exhibit. Note that the royal apartments are closed Tuesday through Thursday and the chapel might be closed on Sunday. Do not wear shorts, a short skirt, or a low-cut top.
3. Palermo Cathedral
Built by the Normans beginning 1184, the Palermo Cathedral is a must-see for the many architectural styles incorporated into its facade. Altered throughout the centuries since its inception, the cathedral demonstrates Catalan Gothic architecture and features hints of its past life. The site the cathedral now occupies once housed a mosque (among other religious edifices), and you’ll see an inscription from the Quran on one of the cathedral’s columns. Inside, you will find a crypt, the crown of Constance of Aragon, and the tombs of several royal figures. Go early to avoid lines and go to the roof for fantastic views of Palermo. Admission to the Cathedral is free, with affordable tickets to see the roof, tomb, and crypt.
4. Mercato di Ballarò
For the next stop on this walking tour through Palermo, head to Ballarò, a busy street market where you can buy pretty much anything. Aim to go for lunch, but not on Sunday.
- Hungry? Search for the line at El Bocadillo for grilled-while-you-wait stighiola. Stighiola is veal, lamb, or goat intestines wrapped around a spring onion or leek, grilled, and served in chunks, salted, with a fresh wedge of lime.
5. Chiesa di Santa Caterina d’Alessandria
Santa Caterina d’Alessandria is a Dominican church and convent complex. The church was built between 1566 and 1596, and the convent was founded in 1311. The complex is a major example of Sicilian Baroque architecture.
- Hungry? I Segreti del Chiostro is a pasticceria located in this 14th century monastery. The canoli are to die for. But you could also try the torte di ricotta or cassata. (My mom and I may have gotten one of each).
- Thirsty? Casa Stagnitta is a coffee roaster that also has fantastic pistachio granita.
6. Piazza Pretoria
Piazza Pretoria is dominated by the over-the-top Fontana Pretoria. Look for nude nymphs, tritons, and leaping river gods.
7. Quattro Canti
The intersection of Corso Vittorio Emanuele and Via Maqueda is better known as the Quattro Canti. The intersection is framed by four symmetrical curvilinear facades with statues on each of three tiers of each building. This area is a hub of activity and street performers.
- Hungry? Go to Trattoria Al Ferro di Cavallo or Buatta Cucina Popolana for Palermo’s specialty, pasta con le sarde (pasta with sardines, pine nuts, raisins, fennel and breadcrumbs).
- Bisso Bistrot offers traditional Sicilian food. Look for the bookstore signs.
- Passami ù coppu is counter service street food in fancy paper cones and Antica Focacceria San Francesco also has counter service street food or fancier table service.
8. La Vucciria
This market is made up a series of alleyways south of the Chiesa di San Domenico. It was once notorious for Mafia activity but is now much more of a drunken party spot but fresh produce and other market items are also available for sale earlier in the day.
- Hungry? Search for the pani câ mèusa cart, for a soft bread bun stuffed with boiled and lard-fried calf spleen, lung, and trachea.
9. Chiesa di San Domenico
San Domenico is a Baroque-style Roman Catholic church built in 1640, with the imposing facade added in 1726. If you have trouble finding Vucciria Market, the previous stop on this Palermo walking tour, one of the entrances is to the right when you’re facing the church.
10. Teatro Massimo
This is the largest opera house in Italy. It opened in 1897 and is a beautiful example of Neoclassical architecture. It is known for its exceptional acoustics, and is a popular venue for opera, ballet, and concerts. Check the performance schedule to get tickets or do a 35 minute guided tour. Tours start every 30 minutes and cost €12.
- Hungry? Go to Antico Caffè Spinnato for arancine, a drink, light lunch, or a late night snack.
This concludes our walking tour around Palermo. Depending how long you spent at each stop, you may want to go back and visit some of them again now, or another day.
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