Considering a trip to Palermo? Read on for a Palermo travel guide with everything you need to know to plan your trip to this vibrant and historic city with a rich cultural heritage.
Palermo is the capital city of the Italian island of Sicily. It is located on the Tyrrhenian Sea and is known for its beautiful beaches, charming old town, and delicious food.
I had less than 2 days in Palermo but feel like 3 full days would be the perfect amount of time.
Read on to learn about Palermo – getting there, getting around, where to stay, where to eat, and what to expect.
Here’s my Google Map of the best things to do in and around Palermo that you can use as a visual companion for this Palermo travel guide. Hit the “Follow” or “Save” button to save for later.
Don’t miss out on this! This article is also featured on GPSmyCity. To download this article for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Walking Tours and Articles in Palermo.
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What to Expect
If this is your first stop in Sicily, read my 10 tips for planning a trip to Sicily.
Palermo, a city of winding streets and crumbling buildings, is a place of both beauty and danger. The sun-drenched piazzas are filled with laughter, but the dark alleyways hide secrets. The city’s history is long and bloody, and its streets are haunted by the ghosts of its past. But there is also beauty to be found here, in the city’s architecture and art. If you are looking for a place where history, culture, and danger collide, then Palermo will surely capture your imagination. It is a land of beauty, adventure, and possibility.
What to See and Do in Palermo
- Get lost exploring the narrow streets or take a walking tour. Here’s my self-guided walking tour and here are a few guided options:
- Visit the Palermo Cathedral: Standing on a site rich with religious history, Palermo Cathedral is a testament to Sicily’s multicultural past. Founded in 1184 by the Normans, the cathedral’s facade showcases a fascinating blend of architectural styles. From the soaring Catalan Gothic arches to hints of its previous life as a mosque (including a Quran inscription!), the building tells a story in stone. Step inside to discover further treasures. Explore the cathedral’s crypt, marvel at the crown of Constance of Aragon, and pay your respects at the tombs of revered royalty. Go early to avoid lines and go to the roof for fantastic views of Palermo. Admission to the Cathedral is free, with affordable tickets to see the roof, tomb, and crypt.
- Royal Palace and Palatine Chapel: The 11th-12th century palace is a mix of various styles, including European, Sicilian, Byzantine, and Arabic. Among its treasures are stunning Byzantine mosaics and an intricate wooden stalactite ceiling reminiscent of Islamic design. The chapel is also a must. A €19 admission ticket gets you access to the Palatine Chapel, royal apartments, royal gardens, and a rotating exhibit. Note that the royal apartments are closed Tuesday through Thursday and the chapel might be closed on Sunday. Do not wear shorts, a short skirt, or a low-cut top.
- Explore the Vucciria Market: The Vucciria Market is a lively market that is full of stalls selling fresh produce, seafood, and meats. It is a great place to experience the local culture and to sample some of the delicious food that Palermo has to offer. Go at night to properly experience the chaos.
- See the Teatro Massimo: The largest opera house in Italy opened in 1897 and is a beautiful example of Neoclassical architecture. It is known for its exceptional acoustics, and is a popular venue for opera, ballet, and concerts. Check the performance schedule to get tickets or do a 30 minute guided tour. Tours start every 30 minutes and cost €12.
- Enjoy the food: Palermo is a foodie’s paradise. There are restaurants serving all types of cuisine, from traditional Sicilian to international fare. Be sure to try some of the local specialties, such as pasta alla Norma and arancine. Or learn to make some of the specialties in a cooking class:
- Admire Cattedrale di Monreale: Islamic architects crafted the cathedral, its walls adorned with gleaming mosaics. These mosaics depict scenes from the Old Testament, the life of Jesus Christ, and the lives of the apostles. The site also boasts a Benedictine cloister, complete with a courtyard and garden, all built around the same time. Be sure to visit the duomo and cloisters. Dress decently and expect it to be closed early afternoon. Admission is free. This will be on my itinerary next time I visit Palermo.
- Get some sun on Mondello Beach: Palm trees sway over a beach of pale sand and emerald water. Art Nouveau villas and colorful cabins peek out from the shore, while a vibrant fishing village with brightly colored boats awaits around the bend. Rent a chair and umbrella for a day in the sun. Some sections of the beach are free but expect to pay to access others.
- Explore the Catacombe dei Cappuccini: The Capuchin Catacombs are a series of underground chambers that contain the mummified remains of over 8,000 people. The catacombs were created in the 16th century by the Capuchin friars. This is definitely something I’ll make time for on my next trip.
- Grab lunch at Mercato di Ballarò: A busy street market where you can buy pretty much anything. Aim to go at lunch but not on a Sunday.
Getting to Palermo
Fly: Palermo’s Falcone-Borsellino, a.k.a. Punta Raisi airport (PMO) has connections around Italy and other parts of Europe.
- From Falcone-Borsellino, a.k.a. Punta Raisi airport:
- Trains run twice per hour between the airport and Palermo’s Stazione Centrale for €6.50. Check the schedule and verify the price on trenitalia.com. At the airport, after exiting the arrivals area, take the escalator down to the train. Buy your ticket from a machine before boarding the train, Most sights and hotels are walkable from the train station, or take a taxi the rest of the way.
- Prestia e Comandè buses also run twice per hour and cost €6.50. Depending on traffic, this option may be faster and they may be able to get you closer to your hotel as they have several stops along the way to Stazione Centrale, the final stop. After exiting the airport, buses are to the far right, just beyond the end of the building. Load your luggage under the bus before boarding, but keep smaller bags and valuables with you. Buy your ticket from the driver or save a tiny bit and guarantee your seat by buying online or from the lobby desk.
- Shared taxis are €8. These mini vans line up to the right after exiting the terminal. Once there are 5-8 people in a shared taxi, they’ll depart, dropping you off at Teatro Politeama, Stazione Centrale, or possibly halfway along Via Roma if you ask nicely. The advantage to these over the bus is that they leave more frequently and are very slightly faster.
- Taxis will cost about €50 to the center but there is no set cost so negotiate your rate. Ask for a set price to be written down and confirm that the driver won’t charge you extra for random things like luggage.
- Keep it simple and book a private transfer.
- There are a number of car rental agencies in the terminal. However, a car is not particularly useful for getting around Palermo so I wouldn’t recommend this option.
Train: Palermo’s Stazione Centrale is located in the city center and has train connections throughout Sicily and to mainland Italy via a ferry. Check trenitalia.com or use their app to check schedules and buy tickets.
The central bus station, located in the city center, is also useful, particularly if you’re traveling from interior parts of Sicily. The main bus operators that serve Palermo are Sais, Interbus/Segesta/Etna Trasporti, Salemi, and AST. I haven’t found a good centralized place with Sicilian bus schedules so you may need to check with each operator individually if you’re not using a travel agent. Keep in mind that fewer buses run on Saturdays, and even fewer on Sundays.
Getting Around Palermo
Once you’re in the city center, walking is generally the best way to get around.
There are also a large number of electric scooters and some bikes also available if you want to move around a little more quickly. Scooters include Helbiz, Bird, and Ridemovi although this is industry is constantly in flux. Use your phone to download the applicable app and pay for your ride.
Where to Stay in Palermo
We stayed at the B&B Hotel Palermo Quattro Canti for a few nights and then at Eurostars Centrale Palace for another night. They were both in great locations near Quattro Canti and featured rooftop terraces. The rooms were basic but clean and the staff were helpful. They also both had a breakfast option available, which is ultimately why we chose them. These hotels both met our needs and are good options but neither was outstanding.
So generally speaking, if you want to be able to explore the city on foot, try staying somewhere in the historic center. Find a hotel that’s in your price range and has the amenities you want.
Where to Eat in Palermo
- Mercato di Ballarò is a busy street market where you can buy pretty much anything. Search for the line at El Bocadillo for grilled-while-you-wait stighiola. Stighiola is veal, lamb, or goat intestines wrapped around a spring onion or leek, grilled, and served in chunks, salted, with a fresh wedge of lime. Aim to go for lunch, but not on a Sunday.
- Vucciria is another street food market that’s open for lunch and dinner but it really comes to life after hours. Search for the pani câ mèusa/panino milza cart, for a soft bread bun stuffed with boiled and lard-fried calf spleen, lung, and trachea. It’s surprisingly yummy.
- Nni Franco U Vastiddaru is where you go to pick up a huge pani câ mèusa/panino milza (a soft bread bun stuffed with boiled and lard-fried calf spleen, lung, and trachea). Or stick to safer but equally tasty panelle (fried chickpea fritters) and crocche (fried potato fritters), which taste like they’ve been seasoned with the KFC spice blend.
- Bisso Bistrot offers traditional Sicilian food. Look for the bookstore signs. We enjoyed everything we had there.
- Passami ù coppu is counter service street food in fancy paper cones. Despite the seemingly portable nature of these foods, you’ll probably want to sit at a table and use multiple napkins.
- I Segreti del Chiostro is a pasticceria in 14th century monastery. The canoli are to die for. But you could also try the torte di ricotta or cassata. (My mom and I may have gotten one of each).
Here are a few more place that I didn’t get to try last time, but come highly recommended and are on my list for next time:
- Mercato del Capo is another street food market. Search for the Grattatella all’antica no Zu’ Vicè cart for granita. Aim to go for lunch, but not on Sunday.
- Trattoria Al Vecchio Club Rosanero is a fun option for flavourful fish and seafood dishes. If they have it, I’ve been told to order the caponata with swordfish. Expect a wait unless you go early. Also expect soccer fans and great prices.
- Go to Antico Caffè Spinnato for arancine, a drink, a snack, or light lunch.
- A’nìca Ristorante & Pizza Gourmet has good Neapolitan pizzas, pasta, and other Italian food. This is a good option if you want non-Sicilian but still Italian food.
- Antica Focacceria San Francesco has counter service street food or fancier table service.
- Casa Stagnitta is a coffee roaster that also has fantastic pistachio granita, from what I’ve been told.
- Go to Buatta Cucina Popolana for Palermo’s specialty, pasta con le sarde (pasta with sardines, pine nuts, raisins, fennel, and breadcrumbs). Get Cassata for dessert!
- Go to Trattoria Al Ferro di Cavallo for Palermo’s specialty, pasta con le sarde (pasta with sardines, pine nuts, raisins, fennel, and breadcrumbs).
Here’s my full Sicily food guide.
I hope you have enjoyed this Palermo travel guide and more importantly, I hope you get to visit Palermo! If you’re looking for more, here are all of my posts about Italy.
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