Sintra is a whimsical, tourist-filled escape nestled amidst the verdant hills of Portugal. It a place where pastel-colored palaces peek above the treetops, their spires reaching towards a sky perpetually taunted by rainclouds. Once a playground for Portuguese royalty, Sintra is now a technicolor escape from the mundane. The town itself is a labyrinth of narrow streets, each cobblestone whispering secrets of past scandals. Many of Sintra’s sights can easily be explored on foot if you plan appropriately. Read on for a free self-guided walking tour of Sintra that you can do on your own time, using my outline.
While you could absolutely walk most of the tour, I’m recommending that you take a bus or rideshare between a few of the stops as you’ll get to see more that way and still get plenty of walking in. I’m including a Google Maps link for each of the stops to help you follow along and also so that if you want to enter any of the sites, you’ll be able to see when they’re open. You can buy tickets online ahead of time to save 15% off most tickets and avoid long lines at ticket counters or ticket machines. Note that tickets for Pena are for a specific entry time.
Here’s the full map so you can see what you’re getting into before you start. Note that that this map also outlines tours for Belem and Lisbon Center that you may want to do another day.
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Where to Start
From Lisbon, you’ll want to catch a train to Sintra. There is a direct train from the Rossio and Oriente train stations that runs once or twice an hour and takes 40-45 minutes to get to Sintra. This is included with the Lisboa Card or you can pay for it with your Viva Viagem card.
From the train station, you can take a bus to the first stop on the walking tour, the National Palace of Pena. Exit the station to the right, and wait for Scotturb #434. You can buy a ticket to Pena from the driver for under €5. Pena will be the fourth stop and the ride should take approximately 17 minutes. Alternatively, request an Uber or Bolt.
1. National Palace of Pena
The National Palace of Pena, a riot of colour and nonsensical styles, looks like a deranged birthday cake dreamt up by a pastry chef on mushrooms. This is a romanticist palace of onion domes, Moorish keyhole gates, and crenelated pastel towers.
Atop the Sintra Hills, the National Palace of Pena reigns supreme, a dazzling jewel nestled in the mountains’ crown. The surrounding park reflects the palace’s magic, beckoning visitors with whispers of mystery and the promise of hidden wonders. Every twist and turn unveils a new delight, captivating the gaze and leaving you lost in its charm.
Awash in vibrant colours, the Pena Palace embodies the very essence of Portuguese Romanticism. A testament to King-Artist Ferdinand II’s vision, it ignites the imagination of all who enter. Lush greenery fills the surrounding park, creating an idyllic scene often veiled by mist. Like stepping into a fairy tale, the palace has captivated generations with its dreamlike grandeur.
Regular admission is €20 if bought online and tickets are for a specific entry time. Your best bet is to buy the 9:30 a.m. ticket and plan to arrive at the park around 9:00 a.m. We unfortunately arrived much later so the crowds were intense and we had to skip a couple of the sights at the end of this Sintra walking tour.
There is an audioguide available through the CloudGuide app for €1.09. We didn’t use it so I can’t say anything one way or another about the quality.
From Pena, walk about 10 minutes downhill to Castelo dos Mouros. Simply use Google Maps to guide your way there.
2. Castelo dos Mouros
High atop a Sintra peak, the Moorish Castle stands alone. This imposing fortification, built in the 10th century, dates back to the Moorish rule of the Iberian Peninsula. It promises breathtaking vistas. However, beware of treacherous pathways and the ever-present possibility of a rogue gust of wind sending your hat tumbling into the abyss below.
Its famous walls wind across the hills with granite blocks interlinking boulders and cliffs into its defences. The walls offer a most delightful (though some might say strenuous) opportunity for exploration.
Stroll along the parapet walk and be astounded by the unparalleled panorama. The charming town of Sintra unfolds below, while the vibrant Pena Palace adds a splash of color. Gaze further to the bold contrast of the green hills meeting the cerulean blues of the Atlantic Ocean.
Regular admission is €12 if bought online.
From here, you can continue your Sintra walking tour with a walk downhill to Sintra National Palace. If you’d like to get off your feet for a while, you can catch bus #434 again, which will first head back to Pena before stopping in the city center.
3. Sintra National Palace
The two elaborate conical chimneys of Sintra National Palace define the landscape of Sintra Old Town like a faded postcard come to life.
The Palace of Sintra isn’t a single structure, but emerges out of many royal palaces constructed, added, and adapted over centuries. Its founding date remains a mystery, but parts likely date back to the 10th or 11th century, when Sintra was ruled by the Moors.
Throughout the Middle Ages, it became a favorite retreat for Portuguese monarchs, due to the abundant hunting grounds, cool summer air, and escape from Lisbon’s plagues.
More than just a residence, Sintra National Palace is a silent witness to many defining moments in the history of Portugal. Today, it offers visitors a chance to travel back in time, to glimpse lives vastly different from our own. Listen carefully for the sighs of a disappointed monarch.
Regular admission is €13 if bought online. There is an audioguide available through the CloudGuide app for €1.09 . We didn’t use it so I can’t say anything one way or another about the quality.
- Hungry? Incomum was recommended as a good, affordable lunch option when visiting Sintra. Expect unique twists on traditional Portuguese dishes. It was temporarily closed when we were there so I didn’t get to try it myself.
It’s another 10 minute walk from Sintra National Palace to the next stop on your Sintra walking tour, Quinta da Regaleira.
4. Quinta da Regaleira
The Quinta da Regaleira boasts a spiral well, hidden grottoes, cryptic symbols, and enough winding passages to make one suspect the entire estate is a metaphor for a particularly existential hangover.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, nestled within the Old Town of Sintra, Quinta da Regaleira rose in the late 1800s, embodying the romantic era’s spirit and ideals.
The visionary architect and set designer Luigi Manini brought to life the philosophical and esoteric ideas of owner António Augusto Carvalho Monteiro in this fascinating set of buildings and mystic gardens.
Much more than a tourist tour, Quinta da Regaleira whisks you away to a fantastical realm of symbols and metaphors.
Regular admission is €12 if purchased online.
Because we got a late start to our day, we weren’t able to visit Quinta da Regaleira but you better bet it’s on my must-see list for next time.
- Hungry? Stop by Casa Piriquita for travesseiros da casa and queijadas to perk you up. (We did find time for pastries – highly recommend).
From Quinta da Regaleira, you can catch Scotturb bus #435 to Monserrate. You can buy a ticket from the driver for under €5. Alternatively, request an Uber or Bolt.
5. Park and Palace of Monserrate
If you seek solace in nature, the Park and Palace of Monserrate might lure you in with its promise of exotic gardens. However, be warned that the beauty here is as untamed as it is alluring, with hidden grottoes and winding paths that might lead you anywhere.
Once a haven for writers, Monserrate had captivated international visitors, particularly the British who gushed about its beauty in travel journals and engravings. Among them was Francis Cook, a 19th-century British industrialist and art aficionado drowning in money. Upon seeing Monserrate, he was utterly smitten. This spark of inspiration ignited the creation of a masterpiece of Romanticism: the Park and Palace of Monserrate.
Francis Cook turned his vision into reality, transforming Monserrate into the wonder we experience today. Lush gardens burst with exotic flora from across the globe. The palace itself stands as a testament to Romantic architecture, a fusion of Cook’s refined tastes and the genius of architect James Knowles Jr., who masterfully blended diverse influences.
However, the history of this charming site is a labyrinthine of unfortunate pasts, each twist and turn adding another layer to the peculiar tapestry of Monserrate’s existence.
Regular admission is €12 if bought online. There is an audioguide available through the CloudGuide app for €1.09.
We didn’t make it to Monserrate on our last trip so it’s still on my list for next time.
From Monserrate, catch Scotturb bus #435 back to the Sintra train station. Alternatively, request an Uber or Bolt.
This concludes our walking tour around Sintra. If you have more time in the area, there are plenty more sights to see.
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