Downtown Luxury Slum

If you are looking for a city that is both enchanting and exasperating, then Lisbon, Portugal, is the perfect place for you. This Lisbon travel guide includes everything you need to know to plan a trip to this enchanting city.

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1. What to Expect in Lisbon
2. What to See and Do in Lisbon
3. Getting to Lisbon
4. Getting Around Lisbon
5. Where to Stay in Lisbon
6. Where to Eat in Lisbon

What to Expect in Lisbon

Lisbon is an ancient city is perched on a series of hills overlooking the sparkling Tagus River, and it is a labyrinth of narrow streets, bustling squares, and historic cobbled lanes. The hilly streets are lined with buildings with striking tiled façades and pretty wooden trams. The air is filled with the sound of fado and the smell of orange trees.

Lisbon is a city with a rich history. It was founded over 2,000 years ago, and it has been ruled by Romans, Moors, and Christians. The city is home to a number of historic buildings and sites, including the São Jorge Castle, the Jerónimos Monastery, and the Belém Tower.

Lisbon is also a city that is full of life. The streets are filled with people from all walks of life, from traditional fado singers to trendy urban hipsters. And the city is home to a vibrant arts and culture scene, with a number of museums, theaters, and music venues.

However, Lisbon is not without its perils. The city is known for its steep hills, its narrow streets, and its chaotic traffic. The sidewalks (known here as calçadas) are paved in stone that, when dry, is slippery and when wet, is a cracked head waiting to happen. And it is a city that will leave you wondering, “Who the F*ck is Henry?“

Still, if you are brave enough, Lisbon is a city that is always worth a visit, just be sure to keep your wits about you.

I would recommend spending at least three full days in Lisbon and more if you plan to take a day trip to Sintra or elsewhere.

Here’s my Google Map of the best things to do in and around Lisbon that you can use as a visual companion to this Lisbon travel guide. Hit the “Follow” or “Save” button to save for later.

What to See and Do in Lisbon

• Listen to fado music: In the realm of musical melancholy, where sorrow and longing intertwine, there exists a genre that weaves tales of heartache and resilience, of love lost and dreams unfulfilled. This genre is known as fado, a haunting melody that originates from the cobblestone streets of Lisbon. And no visit to Lisbon is complete without experiencing the melodic tunes. In the dimly lit backstreets of Lisbon, fado singers pour their souls into their performances, their voices raw with emotion, their eyes filled with tears so if you wander through the old town of Alfama you’ll likely hear it entirely by accident. Fado is a music that demands attention and It’s not really my thing but if you choose to seek it out, I’m told you should head to Mesa de Frades or Tasca Bella.
• Watch the sunset: Head to a rooftop bar such as Park Rooftop or TOPO, the castle, or a miradouro – or viewpoint. I will highly recommend the Miradouro da Graça but many of them will come with lovely sunset views. Bring a drink and a picnic to enjoy while you soak up the vibes of the city.

• Go to Belém to see the Jerónimos Monastery, Belém Tower, and try the original pastéis de nata from Pastéis de Belém.
• Visit the Castelo de São Jorge: This 11th century castle is visible from across Lisbon. Expect lots of peacocks and great views of the city. Take a tuktuk up or search “elevator” and you’ll be surprised at the number of public elevators in the city. Come first thing in the morning to beat the line or towards the end of the day to enjoy the sunset views. Admission costs €15. If the queue for tickets is long, you can buy a skip-the-line ticket on the website. There are a number of guided tours available, some of which are included with the admission ticket, and some of which cost additional €4. Check tour availability when you visit. For tours, aim for 10am-1pm October-March if you can.

• Take a food tour: Lisbon is a city made for foodies. So much so, that it can be difficult to fit everything into just one short weekend. A good food tour will allow you to taste the best of what Lisbon has to offer, plus learn about local plates and traditions.
  • Undiscovered Lisbon Food & Wine Tour has lunch and dinner options for €99 per person.
  • 17 Tastings Lisbon Food Tour also has lunch and dinner tour options for €95 per person.
  • Tastes & Traditions of Lisbon Food Tour is offered at 10 a.m. daily for €77 per person although they may increase daily offerings in high season.
  • Lisbon Cultural Food and Wine Walking Tour offers lunch and afternoon tours for €79 per person.
• Ride the tram: historic tram 28E is an adorable yellow-and-white vintage electric tram that crisscrosses the city center, passing many of Lisbon’s key sights along the way. Expect amazing views and absurdly steep climbs.

• Take a walking tour: This guided tour is practically free, this one is longer but still affordable, or do a self-guided walking tour. Here’s a short tuk-tuk tour, a longer tuk-tuk tour, or a short electric bike tour if you want to move a little quicker.
• Climb to the top of the National Pantheon: This beautiful church is the national pantheon of Portugal, and sits proudly in the Alfama district, instantly recognizable with its white dome ceiling. Visitors can enter the pantheon and climb to the top, where they’ll have a perfect view of the stunning symmetrical design from above. It’s also a great place to see the city from above, with views stretching way across the Tagus river. Admission is €8.

• Visit a ceramics shop: Lisbon’s facades might be Instagram darlings, with their colorful ceramic tapestries adding a touch of warmth and charm to the city’s streets, but Portugal’s love affair with clay runs deeper than a hashtag. Portugal is rich in clay, and has been making ceramics for centuries. Visit Cerâmicas na Linha in Chiado, where you’ll discover a treasure trove of ceramic wonders, all available for purchase by weight. It’s a delightful and economical way to acquire plates, bowls, and mugs that would typically cost a pretty penny in your own neighborhood.

Getting to Lisbon

Fly: Humberto Delgado Airport (LIS), previously known as Portela Airport, is a few miles north of the city center. It has flights to many destinations across Europe as well as to destinations in North and South America, the Middle East, and Africa. 

Train: Lisbon is served by the Santa Apolónia, Oriente, Rossio, and Cais do Sodré train stations, depending on where you’re traveling from. Use Omio to check long distance routes and schedules and CityMapper for commuter routes and schedules.

Bus: Lisbon’s Sete Rios bus station is located across the street from the Sete Rios train station and Jardim Zoológico metro station, northwest of Lisbon city center. Bus companies with service to Lisbon include Vamus, RodoTejo, and Rede Expressos. Check their websites for routes and schedules.

Self-drive: If arriving by car, note that having a car in Lisbon’s historic center is not particularly useful. Ask your hotel where to park if you’re staying overnight or aim for Parque Restauradores and expect to pay around €3 per hour or €25 for 24h, paid in cash (make sure you have bills smaller than €50), or with the telpark app.

Getting Around Lisbon

From the Humberto Delgado Airport:

There are a number of options but I would recommend either a ride-share for ease and speed or metro for affordability and relative simplicity.

• Bus: It’s not worth the hassle.
• Metro: After passing through baggage claim and leaving the arrivals hall, turn right and follow the signs leading to an escalator that will take you down to the metro station. Stop at the ticket machines or booth to buy a Viva Viagem card with a zapping ticket (for repeated use), single-ride, or 24-h ticket. Use the CityMapper app to check routes and schedules but plan on the trip taking about 30-40- minutes.
• Taxi: They line up at the curb waiting for your arrival. Insist on using the meter – it should start around €4 and be set to Tarifa 1 (or Tarifa 2 for nights, weekends, and holidays). There is a €1.60 fee for as much luggage as you can fit. The ride to Lisbon city center should cost about €10-15 and will likely take no more than 20-30 minutes.
• Ride-share: Uber, Bolt and FREE NOW rideshares may be more affordable than a taxi.
• In addition, the airport has agents for the major car rental firms but having a car in Lisbon is not particularly useful. Ask your hotel where to park if you’re staying overnight.

From the Santa Apolónia, Oriente, Rossio, or Cais do Sodré train stations:

• Metro: All train stations have a connecting metro station. If you’re not already near your final destination, use the metro to get there. Use the CityMapper app to check routes and schedules.
• Ride-share: Uber, Bolt and FREE NOW should be able to get you anywhere in the city center for under €6.

From Sete Rios bus station:

• Transfer to the Jardim Zoológico metro station or order a ride-share.

Once you’re in Lisbon’s city center:

Walking is the best way to explore Lisbon’s historic neighborhoods. But beware that the sidewalks, called calçada Portuguesa, are extremely slippery even when dry.

If you plan on using public transportation, get a Viva Viagem card for €0.50 from a ticket machine at any metro, train, or boat station. Top up the card with “zapping” credit for individual rides or 24-h passes and then tap to pay. Get a 24-h pass if you expect to take 5 or more rides in a day. Use the CityMapper app to check routes and schedules because it’s a little more reliable than Google Maps. The LisboaCard tourist card will also give you unlimited free access to public transportation. 

The metro has four lines and comes in handy for reaching farther destinations. The red line goes to the airport and intersects with the other three lines. Pay with your Viva Viagem card.

Take the train to Belém or farther east parts of the city. Board at Cais do Sodré and pay with your Viva Viagem card. Trains run every 20-30 minutes and take about 10 minutes to Belém.

The bus system is efficient and fairly intuitive but avoid rush hour if you don’t want to be packed in like a sardine. Pay with your Viva Viagem card.

To get across the Tagus, take a boat. Pay with your Viva Viagem card.

• Cais do Sodré boat station has boats to Montijo, Seixal, and Cacilhas.
• Terreiro do Paço boat station has boats to Barreiro. 
• Belém boat station has boats to Trafaria and Porto Brandão.

Funiculars and elevators are a fun (and incredibly helpful) way to get up some of the steep hills. Tickets bought on board are €3.80 return on the funiculars and €5.30 return on the elevator. Instead, use your Viva Viagem card and spend only €1.35 per trip.

• Glória (51E) connects Restauradores to Bairro Alto. Use it to get to Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara and the Church of Saint Roch.
• Lavra (52E) links Baixa and Jardim do Torel.
• Bica (53E) connects Cais do Sodré to Bairro Alto.
• Santa Justa elevator (54E) connects Baixa to Largo do Carmo in Chiado Use it to get to Carmo Convent.

E-bike and scooter options include Lime, Bolt, Bird, Movi, and Gira. Use the apps to find and pay for your ride. Be careful on the streets though, the drivers in Lisbon aren’t the most bike friendly. 

Taxis are black with a green roof. A light means it’s available and can be hailed down, though you may have an easier time if you find a taxi stand. They run on meters and are required to give you a receipt. Some take credit cards but some may require cash. Uber, Bolt and FREE NOW rideshares are more affordable options, but realistically, you should be able to get anywhere in the city center for under €6.

The trams, including 28E, run every 10 minutes or so and can be a fun way to sightsee, but aren’t the best way to get around if you don’t love crowds, being stuck behind double parked cars, or pickpockets. Pay with your Viva Viagem card.

Tuk-tuks can be a good way to get a private driver for an hour or two. Expect to pay around €50/h. 

A car is not particularly efficient for getting around Lisbon so I wouldn’t recommend driving your own car.

Where to Stay in Lisbon

When it comes to accommodations in Lisbon, you’ll most likely want to stay in the center so that you’ll easily be able to visit all the sites, have easy access to public transportation, and enjoy some good restaurants. Accommodations in Lisbon are generally fairly affordable with a good variety to choose from.

I can strongly recommend staying at Esquina Cosmopolitan Lodge. Esqina Cosmopolitan Lodge is a reasonably priced 4-star hotel. The hotel offers free WiFi, optional breakfast, and a 24-hour front desk. It is very conveniently located within walking distance of many attractions and so many good restaurants. The hotel has a terrace, air-conditioned rooms with small balconies, and a restaurant and bar. Rooms have city views, furniture designed by local designers, and enough hooks to actually hang all of your things.

However, if that doesn’t suit your needs, find a hotel that’s in your price range, with the amenities you want, in the Lisbon city center.

Where to Eat in Lisbon

If you’re into fado, definitely plan for at least one dinner at a fado place. Another unique to Lisbon experience is grabbing food or drinks from a quiosque (snack bar) which can be found all over town, including at most miradouros. Some Lisbon specialties to seek out include pastel de nata (sweet egg tart), pastel de bacalao (cod fritter), and bifana (pork sandwich). And don’t forget to stop for a shot of ginjinha (cherry liqueur) at some point.

Lisbon might be the best food city I’ve ever visited – I was super happy about almost every meal I had, including the basic ham and cheese sandwich I got at the airport on arrival. So here’s my list of restaurant recommendations based on what I had the chance to try.

• Maçã Verde is a tasty and affordable tasca. Get any of the grilled fish options or look for chanfana (goat stew). Get a salad to go with your meal – it’s super simple but so delicious.
• Don’t miss O Velho Eurico, a traditional no-frills Portuguese spot that’s super popular with and highly recommended by locals. Email for a reservation, or get in line 30 minutes before it opens. Get anything on the menu. Don’t be surprised if you get passed a gallon water bottle full of some sort of local booze.
• Solar dos Presuntos is another traditional Portuguese restaurant that you should not miss. Try the grilled octopus or roasted kid, and don’t turn down the couvert. I promise it’s not just another tourist trap.
• Taberna da Rua das Flores is a super cool tapas spot and possibly the best Portuguese restaurant in Lisbon according to locals. The menu is written on a chalkboard and changes daily so I won’t make any specific recommendations but can say that literally everything we ordered was amazing. Queue up before 6pm opening to get on the list for a table.
• Tasca Baldracca is another fantastic no-frills, affordable, traditional restaurant with amazing food. Look for veal cheeks, cuttlefish, and Spanish octopus.
• Enjoy the views at Chapitô à Mesa, a traditional Portuguese restaurant. Get the bacalhau à Brás, stewed veal cheeks, or suckling pig. Go early if you want a good table. To get there, follow the signs through a cute handmade-jewelry shop, and up and down a bunch of stairs. The terrace is up a spiral staircase.
• Cervejaria Ramiro is a super popular seafood restaurant. Everyone including Anthony Bourdain will tell you to go here, and you should. But here’s the deal. There are two different entrances to the restaurant: one is for reservations, and one is for walk-ins. If you don’t make a reservation, try going mid-afternoon to avoid a ridiculously long wait. And then get the barnacles – I promise they’re delicious. But everything is good so just get whatever you’re in the mood for and if you can go with a group, you’ll be able to try more things.
• For a quick, casual meal, head to Time Out Market Lisboa, a food hall in the historic market hall. Try bacalhau a bras or saffron rice with shrimps and avruga caviar from Chef Miguel Castro e Silva. Everyone and their dog will also recommend Manteigaria’s pastel de nata, but I personally didn’t get a chance to try it.
• Another spot for a quick, casual meal is Mercado da Baixa, an outdoor, covered food market. Look for cheese, sausage, wine, and all things magical. It runs the last weekend of the month and throughout the Christmas season. I ate here at least 4-5 times when we were in Lisbon.
• Join the line at The Bifanas of Afonso for a bifana, a simple street food sandwich with thin slices of fried pork shank stuffed into a crusty roll. Order at the window and expect to wait in line but it does move quickly.
• Miss Can is another spot for a casual bite. They sell conservas (small cans of gourmet seafood) which you can get seasoned with olive oil, spicy olive oil, spicy olive oil and pickles, or tomato sauce. Enjoy with a glass of dry white port and tonic.
• Go to A Ginjinha for a cheap shot of cherry liqueur. Because all the Travel Channel people do it.
• Ginginha do Carmo is a nice place to stop for ginjinha simply because of its location, but it’s worth noting that it wasn’t my favourite ginjinha, so try not to make this the only time you try it.
• TOPO MARTIM MONIZ is a rooftop cocktail and tapas bar with sunset views. It’s located on Floor 5 of the very unassuming Martim Moniz building.
• Copenhagen Coffee Lab, Espressolab Portugal, and Fábrica Coffee Roasters are all good options for coffee.

I hope you enjoyed this Lisbon travel guide. Would you be interested in a list of restaurants I didn’t get to eat at but still really want to?