Downtown Luxury Slum

Tokyo, a city of towering skyscrapers and neon lights, is a place of both wonder and awe. It is a city where the ancient and the modern collide in a cacophony of noise and color. Here’s your complete Tokyo travel guide.

This post contains affiliate links and I may earn a small commission when you make a purchase using the links at no additional cost to you.

If this is your first stop in Japan, read my 10 tips for planning a trip to Japan.

1. What to Expect
2. What to See and Do in Tokyo
3. Getting to Tokyo
4. Getting Around Tokyo
5. Where to Stay in Tokyo
6. Where to Eat in Tokyo
7. What Else to Do Near Tokyo

What to Expect

The streets of Tokyo are a maze of narrow alleys and bustling boulevards stacked in a half dozen layers on top of each other. The air is thick with the scent of unfamiliar foods and the sound of a thousand conversations. The people are polite and reserved, but there is a sense of underlying tension, as if they are all holding their breath, waiting for the next disaster to strike.

The city’s history is a tapestry of tragedy and triumph. From the devastating earthquake of 1923 to the horrors of World War II, Tokyo has endured much. And yet, from the ashes of these disasters, a new and vibrant city has risen.

So, if you find yourself in Tokyo, remember that in Tokyo, as in life, misfortune can strike at any moment.

What to See and Do in Tokyo

You would not come close to running out of incredible things to do if you spend a full week in Tokyo. Here are a few ideas to get you started.

• Immerse yourself in tradition at the Senso-ji Temple: Senso-ji is a place of ancient worship and modern torment. As one of Tokyo’s oldest Buddhist temples, it offers a glimpse into the past, but it is also a labyrinth of misfortune and commercialism. Senso-ji is free to visit but there are abundant opportunities to spend some money while you’re there.

• Meiji Jingu Shrine: This Shinto shrine is a peaceful testament to the beauty of nature and the enduring legacy of the Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken. The serene gardens, adorned with vibrant seasonal blooms, offer a moment of tranquility and reflection. Meiji Jingu is free to visit.

• Akihabara: Immerse yourself in the eclectic world of anime, manga, and video games, where neon lights illuminate bustling streets filled with cosplay enthusiasts, unique merchandise, and cutting-edge games.

• Asakusa: Experience traditional Tokyo in this charming district, known for its old-fashioned atmosphere, Hoppy Street, and cultural attractions.

• Tsukiji Outer Market: While Tsukiji’s wholesale fish market has relocated to Toyosu, its iconic Outer Market continues to thrive. This labyrinth of narrow streets is a treasure trove of fresh seafood, traditional Japanese goods, and delectable street food, from sushi counters to ramen shops and everything in between. Go as early as 5 a.m. if you can’t sleep.
• Embrace chaos at Shibuya Scramble Crossing: As the traffic lights turn red, thousands of pedestrians converge from all directions, creating a synchronized wave of bodies that fills the intersection in organized chaos.

• Tokyo Skytree: Marvel at the panoramic cityscape from the soaring heights of this skyscraper’s observation decks. Adult admission tickets start at ¥2,400 for the Observation Deck level (at 350 m) and ¥3,500 for the Observation Deck and Tembo Galleria levels (at 450 m). Tickets can be purchased online or on-site and are a little bit cheaper if you buy them at least a day early.

• Ghibli Museum: Wander through the whimsical world of Studio Ghibli at this enchanting museum. Adult admission is ¥1,000 and can be purchased online. Tickets for a given month go on sale at 10 a.m. Japan time on the 10th day of the prior month. In other words, plan ahead. Alternatively, just go see the NTV Big Clock designed by Hayao Miyazaki of Studio Chibli. The clock marks the passage of time with many fascinating surprises beginning about 3 minutes before the hours of noon, 1pm, 3pm, 6pm, and 8pm, and also 10am on the weekend.

• Discover unique experiences at TeamLab Borderless: Step into a digital wonderland of interactive art and stunning visual displays. Buy your timed entry tickets online at least a few days ahead of time. Tickets start at ¥4,000 depending on the day and when you buy them.

Getting to Tokyo

Fly: Haneda Airport (HND) is located 15 km south of Tokyo Station. It offers many domestic and international flights.

Fly: Narita Airport (NRT) is 60 km east of central Tokyo and offers primarily international flights.

Train: Tokyo Station, Shinagawa Station, and Ueno Station are the stations with shinkansen (bullet trains). They all have regular train and subway connections as well.

Bus: The main long distance bus stations are the Shinjuku Bus Terminal and the JR Highway Bus Terminal at Tokyo Station, both of which have easy access to transfer to rail lines.

Getting Around Tokyo

From Haneda Airport:

• Use Google Maps transit directions to check the best routes, schedules, and prices for your trip. You can adjust your setting to choose “prefer fastest route” or “prefer simplest route” etc. Regardless of what you choose, you’ll want to pick up an IC Card at the airport if you don’t already have one. 
• Bus: Friendly Airport Limousine tickets can be purchased at a kiosk in the arrivals hall. Expect to spend around ¥1000 – ¥1300 for a 30-90 minute ride depending on traffic and your destination. Buses run no more frequently than every 30 minutes, and fares double between midnight and 5 a.m.
• Monorail: The monorail leaves every 10 minutes from 5 a.m. to midnight, heading to Hamamatsucho Station where you can transfer to the JR Yamanote line. The ride takes 15 minutes.
• Train: The Keikyu Airport Express departs several times an hour for Shinagawa Station where you can transfer to the JR Yamanote line.
• Taxi: Airport taxis have set fares; depending on your destination, you can expect to pay ¥6000 – ¥10,000, with a 20% surcharge between 10 p.m. and 5 a.m.

From Narita Airport:

• Use Google Maps transit directions to check the best routes, schedules, and prices for your trip. You can adjust your setting to choose “prefer fastest route” or “prefer simplest route” etc. Regardless of what you choose, you’ll want to pick up an IC Card at the airport if you don’t already have one. 
• Bus:
  • Tyo-NRT buses depart every 20 minutes or so for Tokyo Station and take about 60-75 minutes. Buy your ¥1500 ticket from the sales counter and use Google Maps or check the website to determine which platform (bus stop) to go to.
    • Friendly Airport Limousine tickets can be purchased at a kiosk in the arrivals hall or reserved online. Expect to spend around ¥3100 for a 90-120 minute ride depending on traffic and your destination.
• Train: There is a train station at Terminal 1 and Terminal 2, and regular shuttles between all of the terminals.
  • Keisei Skyliner is more convenient for destinations on the east side of Tokyo. Tickets with seat reservations must be purchased in the station or online for ¥2580.
  • JR Narita Express is more convenient for destinations on the west side of Tokyo. Tickets with seat reservations must be purchased in the station or online for around ¥3070 – ¥3250; if you have a JR pass, you still need to make a seat reservation.
  • There are also slower trains (Keisei Main Line and Keisei Access Express) that do not have seat reservations and will cost around ¥1000 – ¥1500 depending on your destination.
• Taxi: Airport taxis have set fares; depending on your destination, you can expect to pay ¥22,000 – ¥24,000, with a 20% surcharge between 10 p.m. and 5 a.m.

Bike: While there are bike share programs in Tokyo (Docomo. Cogi Cogi, and Luup), I would not recommend it as an safe or efficient way to get around most areas. We did not try any of them so I also can’t attest to their ease of use.

Bus: Toei buses can get you most places in Tokyo but the subway is typically more convenient. Pay with your IC card as you board the bus. Most buses have digital signage in English but occasionally you’ll just have to listen for your stop, or follow along on the map.

Train and subway: There are multiple rail companies running trains and subways from 5 a.m. to midnight. In addition to JR train lines, there are Tokyo Metro and Toei subway lines that are all colour coded for easy navigation. As always, pay with your IC card and use Google Maps to find the best route.

Taxi and Rideshares: Taxis are expensive and are rarely a good option unless it’s after midnight. They do take IC cards. Rideshare options include Uber and DiDi.

Where to Stay in Tokyo

When it comes to accommodations in Tokyo, you’ll most likely want to stay near Shinjuku or Shibuya where you’ll find yourself surrounded by attractions, shopping, restaurants, and nightlife and have good access to public transportation. If you want to try a second area, Ginza is centrally located, and Asakusa is another option with a fun retro vibe.

I wasn’t in love with any of the hotels we stayed at so I won’t make any specific recommendations. Filter by neighborhood and find a hotel that’s in your price range, with the amenities you want.

Where to Eat in Tokyo

Make sure to get some unagi, nigiri-zushi, tempura, and soba in this bustling metropolis. Here are a few of my favourite spots.

• Cafe Reissue – Cafe Reissue is renowned for its exceptional latte art, crafting both intricate 2D and stunning 3D designs. Simply share a photo of your desired design (or choose from their suggestions), and they’ll expertly bring it to life.
• Daiwa Sushi – At Daiwa Sushi, experience authentic Japanese cuisine with fresh nigiri and rolls, served omakase style in a traditional counter setting at Toyosu Market. It opens as 6 a.m. so you can get your sushi fix first thing in the morning, but expect a bit of a wait.
• HARU CHAN Ramen – The Shimbashi Ekimae Building houses a tiny Michelin-rated ramen shop where, a talented chef, serves up delicious ramen alongside a soundtrack of Disney songs. The shop’s atmosphere is a blend of modern and traditional, and the ramen is a flavorful symphony of broth, noodles, and seasonings.
• Iruca Tokyo Roppongi – Through careful research and experimentation, the chef at this Michelin restaurant created a delicious dashi base upon which to add layers of unami. Adding porcini mushrooms, and black truffles results in Porcini Soy-sauce Ramen, whereas adding yuzu, ginger, spices, and clarified butter results in Salted Yuzu Ramen, both of which are culinary masterpieces. This is definitely one of my favourite restaurants in Tokyo.
• Savoy – Savoy is renowned for its authentic Neapolitan-style pizza. Their pizzas are crafted with a thin, chewy crust that is characteristic of Neapolitan pizza and they use high-quality, often locally sourced ingredients to ensure the best flavor. Their margherita pizza is exceptional, but don’t miss out on their seasonal pies.
• Rainbow Pancake – These fluffy, cloud-like souffle pancakes are cooked to perfection, with a crispy exterior and a light, airy interior. Each bite is a fantastic explosion of happiness. The pancakes come in various flavors, such as matcha, chocolate, and fruit, each offering a unique and delicious experience.
• Higashiya Ginza – Nestled above the bustling streets of central Ginza, this flagship store offers a serene haven. Here, the timeless elegance of the Japanese tea ceremony has been infused with a modern sensibility. As you sip premium teas and savor seasonal Japanese sweets, a sense of tranquility washes over you. Sample as many sweets as you can stomach.
• Zoetrope – Zoetrope is a renowned Japanese whisky bar with over 450 rare and unique Japanese whiskies, many of which are no longer available on the market. The bar’s intimate atmosphere, American film themed decor and soundtrack, and knowledgeable owner make it a great destination for a memorable drink. Tell the owner your price range and preferred flavour profile and he’ll find you the perfect drink.

If you’re looking for more, here’s my full list of places to eat and drink in Tokyo.

What Else to Do Near Tokyo

Mount Fuji

Whether viewed from afar or up close, Mount Fuji inspires awe and wonder. It’s a natural marvel that has captivated people for centuries, a symbol of Japan’s beauty and resilience. Beneath its snow-capped summit lurks a dangerous volcano, a constant reminder of nature’s indifference. Mount Fuji’s majestic presence is a symbol of our vulnerability and the fragility of existence.

---

Tokyo is a place of endless possibilities, where the unexpected is always just around the corner. I hope you’ve enjoyed this Tokyo travel guide. If you’re looking for more, here’s everything I’ve written about Japan.