Erice is a town perched precariously atop a mountain in Sicily, its cobbled streets winding like a tipsy donkey path. The streets are filled with tourists and the air is filled with the smell of freshly baked pastries. Here, history hangs as heavy as the laundry strung across balconies, with ancient stone walls whispering forgotten secrets.
The only practical way to explore Erice is on foot so read on for a free self-guided walking tour of Erice that you can do on your own time, using my outline. I’m including a Google Maps link for each of the stops to help you follow along and also so that if you want to enter any of the sites, you’ll be able to see when they’re open.
Here’s the full map so you can see what you’re getting into before you start.
Don’t miss out on this! This article is also featured on GPSmyCity. To download this article for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Walking Tours and Articles in Erice.
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Where to Start
While it’s possible to drive to Erice, I highly recommend taking the cable car up from Trapani. A regular round trip ticket costs € 11.00 and the ride takes about 10 minutes each way. The cable car doesn’t run in the winter or in windy weather, and hours of opperation change throughout the year, so it’s best to check to the website to ensure it will be running when you want to go. You can take a bus from the historic center of Trapani to the bottom of the cable car – check Google Maps for routes and schedules. If you have a car, there is also affordable parking at the bottom of the cable car.
Once you get to the top, walk to our first stop, Porta Trapani.
1. Porta Trapani
Prepare to step back in time as you enter Erice through Porta Trapani, the town’s impressive main gate.
2. Chiesa Madre
Erice’s Chiesa Madre, dedicated to Santa Maria Assunta, boasts a fascinating legend. Nine ancient crosses embedded in its right wall are rumored to have originated from the Temple of Venus. Legend claims they were brought here by Frederick of Aragon, who sought refuge in Erice during the War of the Sicilian Vespers.
With its imposing square base and distinctive two-light windows, the Torre di Re Federico (the bell tower of the Chiesa Madre) served defensive and observation purposes in addition to being a bell tower.
Regular price admission for each site is €2.50.
Make your way through the meandering streets until you reach the next stop on your Erice walking tour.
3. Garden of Balio
Immerse yourself in the beauty of this marvelous English landscape garden. This scenic haven offers a panoramic vista that stretches on one side towards the Tyrrhenian coast, showcasing the San Vito lo Capo peninsula on the horizon. On the other side, admire the bustling port of Trapani, the shimmering salt pans, and the distant Aegadian islands.
4. Views over Trapani
There are many viewpoints in Erice with sweeping views of the Sicilian coast that could leave one breathless.
5. Castle of Venus
Erice’s crown jewel is the Castello di Venere, a Norman fortress built with materials from the ancient Temple of Venus Ericina, from which it takes its name.
The castle is currently closed for renovations.
6. Torretta Pepoli
Beneath the castle walls there’s the Torretta Pepoli, which can be visited with advance reservation. Regular price admission is €5.00.
6a. Shopping
While browsing the shops, be sure to check out Erice’s renowned handicrafts. The handwoven rugs, meticulously crafted from colorful fabric pieces, and the beautifully hand-painted pottery are a must-see. Keep an eye out for cute shop cats too!
7. Piazza Della Loggia
The heart of Erice, Piazza della Loggia, is a charming square that deviates from the norm. Here, you’ll find the town hall and a restaurant, but surprisingly no churches. The piazza occasionally comes alive with vibrant local festivals.
8. Pasticceria Maria Grammatico
Experience the authentic flavors of Sicily at Pasticceria Maria Grammatico, a historic confectioner offering traditional pastries, with recipes dating back to cloistered monasteries.
From marzipan pastries adorned with intricate lace-like decorations and filled with citrusy preserves, to genovesi ericine bursting with warm custard and dusted with powdered sugar, there’s something for every taste. Don’t miss the classic mustaccioli biscuits, available in both dry and honey-infused varieties with a lingering hint of cloves. And for a truly unique experience, try the frutta martorana, a beautiful marzipan confection sculpted into the shape of realistic fruits using natural colors.
Erice is a place where time seems to have gotten lost on a hike and never found its way back. Head back down the cable car when you’re done with your Erice walking tour so that you don’t have the same fate.
If you haven’t explored Trapani yet, here’ s a Trapani self-guided walking tour.
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